I tried visiting the Kaandela Restaurant when it first opened inside the Amarla Boutique Hotel in Casco Viejo (book a stay at Amarla Boutique Hotel). Every time I went to the city (I moved to my farm in Pedasi) they were full. Honestly, it was my fault since I did not plan in advance knowing that the place was small and popular.
Their original opening hours were quite limited, only operating some days for dinner and breakfast. Now this restaurant in Casco Viejo opens daily for lunch from noon to 3 p.m. from Monday through Saturday. Dinner is served from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sunday brunch goes from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Breakfast is included for guests, but walk-ins are welcome as well, from 7 to 10 a.m.
Kaandela Restaurant can only sit 22 guests, so it is a very intimate restaurant. It is divided in two areas. The courtyard of the hotel offers a chic tropical vibe with palm trees and orchids. No need to worry if it rains, since there is a glass ceiling over the tables. This is the perfect place for a date night or to go with family or friends.
Those who want to see the magic happen should sit inside since this restaurant has an open kitchen. There are high tables to the side, as well as front row seating at the bar.
Edy Acedo
The gastronomical offer at Kaandela Restaurant uses local ingredients combined with global preparation techniques. Edy Acedo is the chef in this restaurant, who started in the culinary world as a child since he was always hungry. He has been cooking recipes since he was 12 when he started watching the Food Network Channel. This inspired him to enroll in the Instituto Argentino de Gastronomía where he worked in a professional kitchen job.
Edy returned to Panama to work in some of the best restaurants in Panama City. Later, he became the chef of La Chesa, an Italian restaurant. He has been with Kaandela Restaurant since its start. This restaurant was nominated by El Buen Tenedor in 2023 as one of the best restaurants in Panama. I went to an event they hosted in the San Felipe Neri Market where they were offering tastings to all the participants.
Chef Edy is constantly renewing the menu at Kaandela Restaurant. He is always looking for new textures and foods to enhance Panama. His menu remains fairly constant, but they do some chef specials. Diners can order from the dinner menu through lunch, but there are also different options during lunch including the burger, Korean chicken, bao and shawarma.
What to order at Kaandela Restaurant?
The name Kaandela comes from a play of the word “candela” which means candle or fire in English. Many years ago, the building where this restaurant and Amarla Boutique Hotel is located suffered two fires. Fire is something very important on a gastronomical level.
On my visit to Kaandela Restaurant, I tasted many dishes on the menu. The first one was “kanpachi and a kiss of smoke” which was smoked in nance wood. The fish is cured with an ancient technique to make it last longer, using kosher salt and sugar. This dish is combined with leche de tigre, traditional for Peruvian ceviches, ají panca, ají chombito, cilantro and homemade pickle vinaigrette. This is served with a black rice crackling with squid ink.
Grilled lamb koftas are a must if you like lamb that is cooked in the oven for six hours. The lamb is marinated for 24 hours using Moroccan spices including cumin, paprika and cinnamon. This entree is served on grilled homemade naan bread. The combination of flavors is incredible, with an umami tomato jam, Uncle Franklin’s tzatziki, pickles, Thai chiles and pistachios.
The last of the appetizers I tried were the pork belly lollipops, which according to the chef are candy for adults and are the best seller at the Kaandela Restaurant. This pork is marinated for 24 hours in Asian spices. The cooking juice is turned into a candy-like glaze that includes scratchings, cane honey, homemade kimchi (fermented for 13 days), Korean-style gochujang mayonnaise, fermented chili paste, and lemon.
Also try the octopus and corn served in various presentations, including emulsified pot tamale and corn torreja with pico de gallo. The octopus is smoked and glazed with grilled green sauce.
The grilled cowboy ribeye is one of the most recent dishes added to the Kaandela Restaurant menu. It takes 20 minutes to cook and is a very large piece of meat, weighing 22 ounces. This rib eye comes with mushroom chimichurri, blue cheese, and caramelized bacon. Another new grilled option, with plenty of fire, is the pork chop that comes with a cream sauce and mustard caviar, accompanied by bok choy and baby potatoes.
Sweet lovers can choose from three dessert options at Kaandela Restaurant. I tried the chocolate volcano and its coffee plantations which has coffee ice cream. There’s also a corn creme brulee with compressed strawberries with basil and smoked cheese. Another option is pumpkin and pecan pie with vanilla ice cream and crunchy oats.
