It is not surprising that there are so many churches in Casco Viejo, the second Spanish city in the Pacific Ocean of Panama. The first was Panama Viejo, which was destroyed in 1671. One of the main objectives of the Spanish (and Portuguese) colonizers was to indoctrinate the indigenous people in the new world. Converting them to Catholicism would make them friendlier. Spain and Portugal signed a treaty dividing the new world that was endorsed by the Vatican.
In Panama there is freedom of worship according to the Constitution of the Republic of Panama. However, 63% is Catholic and 25% is Evangelical.
Why visit seven churches?
In Panama, as in many Latin American countries, the practice of visiting seven churches is practiced. The faithful begin the vigil on Holy Thursday after the evening mass of the Lord’s Supper. The number seven represents the movements that Jesus made on Holy Thursday since the Last Supper with his apostles. These were all situations from the time he was betrayed by Judas until his death.
Seven churches are also mentioned in Revelation, which are the main ones of the beginning of the Christian faith located in the Roman province of Asia. These churches were: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea. Most of all they were referring to local congregations.
Easter in Casco Viejo
It is customary for locals to visit the seven churches in Casco Viejo on Good Friday. It has also become a product of religious tourism. A signage program was recently done so that people could locate churches easily. Church hours were extended until 2 a.m. in 2019, according to Ricardo Gago, of the Association of Friends of the churches of the Old Town, because of the number of people who visited.
In 2018, about 30 thousand people went to the cultural activities and to the circuit of the churches in Casco Viejo.
The itinerary of the “solemn Easter Vigil” begins at 6 p.m. at the Panama Metropolitan Cathedral, then at 7 p.m. at Our Lady of Mercy Church and finally at 8 p.m. in the church of Saint Francis of Assisi church. There is a “procession of the risen one” on the morning of Easter Sunday from the Church of Santa Ana. Masses are also held in the three churches in Casco Viejo on Good Friday.
Churches in Casco Viejo
In Casco Viejo Panama there are six churches and a chapel.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Panama
The Panama Metropolitan Cathedral is also known as the Santa Maria La Antigua Basilica. This is the oldest church in Panama, with beginnings in Santa Maria La Antigua del Darien. In 1520 it was transferred to Panama Viejo, but after pirate attacks the church moved to Casco Viejo in 1674. In 1941 it was declared a National Historic Monument and in 2014 it received the title of minor basilica. Pope Francis consecrated his altar during World Youth Day.
Location: Plaza de la Independencia, also known as Plaza Catedral
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday
San Felipe de Neri Church
The San Felipe Neri Oratory or Church was inaugurated on March 29, 1688, after Father Agustin de Peralta founded the Congregation of Oratorian Fathers in Panama. Originally it was to be an oratory and a hospital for priests, but none worked. The church was the victim of the two great fires in Casco Viejo that happened in 1737 and 1756, being repaired both times.
The Sisters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul converted it into a school in 1875. The building had multiple uses, until it was closed in 1995. Restoration work began in 1998 and ended in 2003. However, it was not until 2013 that was opened to the public. It is currently administered by the archdiocese of Panama.
Location: corner between Calle 4 and Avenida B, diagonal to Plaza Bolívar near the Presidency of the Republic of Panama
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday
San Jose Church
The religious order of the Augustinian Recollects installed the convent and church of San Jose in 1612 near the “Puente del Rey” in what is now known as Panama Viejo. The legend of its golden altar states that the priests covered the altar in black before the pirates arrived. They even asked Henry Morgan for alms to finish the altar, which he gave responding to the fray that he was more pirate than he.
Then the church moved to Casco Viejo; Years later it was left in ruins by a fire in 1737. Therefore, the famous altar was created in the eighteenth century. It was made of bitter cedar and was gilded with low-grade gold, but it has come off and was painted with gold paint.
Location: Avenida A and calle octava, near Plaza Herrera
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday
Our Lady of Mercy Church
This temple, commonly called the Church of Mercy, is run by the Mercedarians, a religious order dedicated to the redemption of captives. They venerate the Virgin of Mercy. This church started in Panama Viejo, but it was not burned by pirates since they used it as a barracks.
When the city moved to Casco Viejo, a land was designated next to the “Puerta de Tierra”. The materials that were to be used to build it were used to wall the city out of fear of other attacks. They had to use the original stones, which are seen at the entrance. This church in Casco Viejo was restored a few years ago, finding bells dating from the thirteenth century, three centuries before the order arrived in Panama.
Location: Central Avenue with 9th and 10th streets, diagonal to the American Trade Hotel
Hours: church 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and museum 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Saint Francis of Assisi church
The history of the order of Saint Francis of Assisi begins in what is now known as Panama Viejo. After the attack by the pirate Henry Morgan in 1671, the city was transferred to Casco Viejo. In 1673, the Franciscans were given a wide space in front of the bay. They built a convent and a church, which were burned in fires in 1737 and 1756. The architecture that is currently seen dates from 1918, when Leonardo Villanueva changed the facade and style of the church. The bell tower in the tower is the highest point in the neighborhood. The church deteriorated over the years, until it was restored between 2013 and 2016.
Location: Plaza Bolívar, next to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Panama and diagonal to the National Theater of Panama
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday
Santa Ana Church
Although it is believed that the Church of Santa Ana was founded around 1560, there really are no records until 1678 when it was built in Casco Viejo. It started as a simple wooden structure, but in 1757 it was decided to change the building to one made of more solid materials. The community made small contributions, however it was mainly financed by the Count of Santa Ana, Mateo Izaguirre, and received the support of Bishop Francisco Xavier de Luna Victoria y Castro.
In those times, Santa Ana was the center of the suburb of the city. A fire in 1854 destroyed the church, which remained in ruins until it was remodeled in the twentieth century. This church has had few restorations and still needs work.
Location: Plaza Santa Ana
Hours: 6 a.m. at 7 p.m. everyday
Chapel John Paul II
John Paul II Chapel is located within the Presidency of the Republic of Panama, therefore it is known as the chapel of the presidency. It was consecrated on November 1, 2014. It usually has restricted access, but it is open on Holy Thursday and Good Friday until midnight. To enter you must go through security, something similar to an airport. It has capacity for 192 people and a private mass is held every Thursday at 11:00 in the morning. As a curious fact, Pope John Paul II visited Panama in 1983, went to the Panama Metropolitan Cathedral, the Presidency and the Revolution Stadium.
Location: Presidency of the Republic of Panama
Hours: closed to the public, only open for Easter
Church and Convent Compañía de Jesús
Currently, the Church and Convent Compañía de Jesús are in ruins, but its architecture is really beautiful. This building was built in 1741 as a college and university managed by the Jesuits. In 1749 they opened the first university in Panama called “The Royal and Pontifical University of San Javier”. It worked until 1767, when the Jesuit order was expelled from all Spanish territories. The building was destroyed in a fire in 1781 and then by an earthquake in 1882. It is currently closed, although this varies according to the government in office.
Location: corner Avenida A with calle 7
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